Showing posts with label lalibela. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lalibela. Show all posts

Sunday, 5 August 2012

Amazing Lalibela

Lalibela is an amazing place.  The landscape is incredible.  Hugely mountainous with rich red brown earth and bright green foliage.  The rainy season is the best time to see Ethiopia I think as it is so verdant and green.  Our bus-ride from the airport was surprising.  The traditional homes of native Laibelians are different to what we had already seen.  They are round in shape with a thatched grass roof and there are several in a compound.  This was a very natural and rural setting.  There were some shops and cafes but these were not tourist areas at all and simply served the local population.

We had pre-arranged a guide who met us at the airport and he took us to one hotel and then to another for us to decide which one we preferred.  We arranged an itinerary with him and we went out the same afternoon after hunch, to look at some of the churches that have been hewn from the rock.  What is amazing about these churches is that they have been literally dug out of the earth.  They are not carved into a rock face but are actually dug out. 

I used to make sandcastles with my children like this: draw a circle in the sand and dig out a moat and pile the sand into the middle to build up the castle. 

King Lalibela (a priest King) stood on the top of a rock face and went downwards.  The church is one whole piece of rock as once the main body of the church was dug out, they then went inwards and carved out the inside of the church.  There are 11 churches in total and took 23 years to complete.  There was one church that was carved out sideways on to a rock face by his queen after his death.

Amazing rock-hewn church 
Chanting Drums 

Martin on watch-duty
Traditional Lalibela style mud house 
Newly built cobbled road 1
Newly built cobbled road 2
View of St George’s Church from the top 

Closer view of St George’s church 
Us and St George’s church! 
Closer view of St George’s church 
Church built by King Lalibela’s wife in 24 hours 
The next day we visited a church and monastery called Nabuka La’ab.  This church was built under a huge overhanging rock with the most fantastic scenery.

The priest is very honest we were told 
View over the mountains 
Church has been built under the overhanging cliff
Monks and nuns live below the church 

Wednesday, 1 August 2012

Plane Journeys

We casually mentioned to our tour guide that we needed to sort out a bus to Axum for the next day and asked where we could get a ticket.  We had heard that the scenery was particularly wonderful from Gondar to Axum and so were happy to travel by bus rather than plane.  He threw his hands up in horror and said that even if tickets were available (we would have to buy them at 5 the next morning and it was most likely to be full anyway) the journey was very bad.  The roads were terrible and what’s more we would have to get two buses and probably would have to stay over in between the buses.  We were convinced that a one hour plane journey was a better alternative, but the problem was that the Ethiopian Airline office was now closed.  If you recall from an earlier blog entry our attempt to buy a ticket as we flew was doomed and so our tour organiser made lots of calls said that there were seats at the moment and told us to be ready at 6 in the morning in the reception area and he would make sure that seats were still available before we set off for the airport.

All went well.  The only fly in the ointment was his attempts to squeeze more money out of us by casually letting us know that he had had a bad night because of a kidney stone and he made a good job of hobbling.  I was suspicious, but you know.  However I thought it was suspect when he was still humping our bags when there was another boy doing it.  Gillian, full of heart and compassion was quite distressed about it and wanted to give him money.  In the end no more money (other than a hefty tip for getting us to the airport with flights despite us being unorganised) passed hands and when we later told Dawit from the school he raised his eyes and said yes it was a scam.  So we did the right thing.  But see what I mean?  The leeching is really hard-core.

As I passed through the personal x-ray I set off the alarm.  The male attendant looked me up and down (only as far as 12 inches under my chin) and pronounced that it was my “Breast holder”.  I was duly sent to a curtained off cubicle to be de-bleeped.  The female attendant literally came up to 12 inches below my chin which was quite amusing.  Even more amusing was that my sister, next in line, also set off the alarm.  We were all alarmed when from behind the curtain we heard those immortal and most feared words “Bend over please”.  Standing close by ready to pounce on hearing “JEN!!!!” she came out in one piece.  Our vertically challenged attendant wanted to check her flip flops.

Internal flights are quite nice.  However, no one told us that the flight went from Gondar to Lalibela and then to Axum.  It’s like going from Liverpool to London to Edinburgh. We got up to get off at Lalibela thinking we were at Axum.
Walking to our plane
Little ain’t she? 
While we were waiting for our luggage to turn up I suddenly realised I’d left my handbag under the seat on the plane.  All our money, cards, passport were in it.  I ran out of the arrivals lounge like a scalded cat onto the runway area waving my arms.  What was I thinking?  Did I really think that the plane would stop as if I was hailing down a car?  I heard shouting behind me and two guys driving the luggage carrier were waving and one of them was holding my bag in the air.  What a bloody relief!

I was kind of sure that Africa Hotel had been mentioned as a good place to stay but maybe it had been reported as not so good, I couldn’t quite remember.  So we decided that we would go there and see what it was like and find somewhere else if we didn’t like it.  Fortunately, there was a man with a sign saying “Africa Hotel” as we came through the airport and so we had free airport transfer as well.